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Um Salim

68. Nablus. Sumac.

Um Salim sorting sumac berries on a white cloth

Her story

“Sour first, then everything else tastes sweeter.”

Um Salim was widowed young and raised six children from what the land gave her. Sumac was the crop that paid for school shoes.

She harvests the drupes when they are fully red, dries them on linen on the roof, and grinds them slowly so the oils are not lost to heat.

Her sumac is salted lightly with coarse sea salt, the way her mother did it, and nothing else.

Family

Mother of six. All six still come home for the sumac harvest.

Her village

Northern West Bank

An old city of soap makers and knafeh, with hills on both sides where sumac grows wild along the terraces.

Sumac drupes drying on linen
A stone grinder dusted red
Rooftops of Nablus at evening

Her recipe

Fattoush

A salad that needs sumac the way bread needs salt.

Cook it
A bowl of fattoush dusted with sumac

What she makes

Reserve one from the first batch.